![]() But it’s driving the best it has in years so I may just leave well enough alone. So, if I can get the remaining driveshaft out this weekend, I may explore replacing it. Try rocking the wheel, that noise is old worn universal joints on each end of the large metal drive shaft. In my opinion vehicle is not worth even the $300.00 for a new driveshaft. Jack the rear wheels off the ground, and put the stands under the axle. ![]() Just replaced them a year ago but only drive it about 10k miles a year, only for work. I am planning to hold on to it until I need to replace the tires. My thought is the Equinox is on its last leg for me. I also removed the AWD fuse and I turn traction control off when I drive. We shall see later this week.Īs I stated earlier, I have noticed the Equinox has never accelerated more smoothly now without the rear wheels involved. I had to remove the driveshaft to replace the center or carrier bearing, which I have done. Supposedly, it has miraculous penetrating properties. Going to attempt a DIY penetrant of 50/50 ATF and acetone. So, I broke the driveshaft out of the engine attachment. The back half was no problem.Īt that point I was planning to just scrap the vehicle. 15 years of NE Ohio winters have rust welded it on. I spent hours with PB blaster, a hammer, and an air hammer/chisel trying to remove the section from the engine attachment. No codes yesterday in fresh snow trying to get the wheels to spin. Knock on wood, no codes after my drive to work for 25’ with highway speeds. I've used the Standard Gear part# ZDS100594 a couple times and it fit and functions just as good as the factory part at a quarter of the cost. Or just look on rock auto and order a replacement for far less than the dealer will charge. Then repair the shaft and reinstall it if it didn't damage the ears when the joint failed. Never tried driving one with the shaft out but there is a speed sensor in the rear differential that reads the axle speed to determine its condition you might want to pull the AWD fuse 41 in the under-hood fuse panel to disable the rear clutches and avert any other issues. You will likely see warning lights for the AWD and traction control and possibly the ABS as well. The front drive cup is also part of the pinion bearing and is bolted in place, so it won't try to fall out and the rear mounting for the yoke is the same. If you removed, it by unbolting the carrier bearing and the CV joint up front and the flange at the rear it should be OK to drive. That part is what transfers power to the rear and the driveshaft connects onto through the CV joint. Pull the driveshaft assembly out from the bottom of the Equinox. Unbolt the carrier bearing from the chassis. That vehicle is basically a front wheel, drive that they bolted a power take off unit onto. Unbolt the driveshaft from the axle with the 3/8-inch ratchet and socket, then unbolt the other half of the driveshaft from the PTU flange on the front of the vehicle. Yes, but you will likely set powertrain codes and due to the rear drive missing it would be easier to get stuck in snow or loose materials.
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